First steps
It takes some stuff to build a boat, but not as much as some might think. I started buying materials a few weeks ago, including marine-grade plywood of different thicknesses, epoxy and fillers, and miscellaneous dimensional lumber. One of the first challenges of this build is the supply chain impacts of the pandemic. As of this writing, it is very difficult to find the various widths and weights of fiberglass tapes required. Fiberglass tape is vital to stitch-and-glue boat building, and until the tape is located, I am at a bit of a standstill. I found a knowledgeable fiberglass and epoxy supplier called Merton’s in Springfield, Massachusetts, who sent all of what they had in stock and promised to look out for the remainder. There’s nothing like working with people who know their products and sources. Other work can be done while awaiting materials. The jig must be built and made level and true. There are panels to loft and cut.
To date, I have completed the port and starboard shelves, which define the shear and hold the gunnels. The shelves are made by lofting lines and points onto 1/8” plywood, using battens to connect the dots with smooth lines, and cutting out and fairing the shape. The lines from the template are transferred onto 1 1/8” ‘blanks’ made by laminating sheets of 3/4” and 3/8” marine plywood. The blanks are approximately 16’ long and bonded with silica-thickened epoxy. Approximately 200 finish nails driven every six inches are used to clamp the lamination together until the epoxy cures. Removing 200 nails can make one appreciate body mechanics.
The outer edge of the shelves requires an angled cut that roughly matches the angle of the side panels to which they are mated. Despite a sturdy jigsaw, new blade, and plenty of patience, much fairing is needed to smooth the flats and bumps along the edges. The ability to hide imperfections with thickened epoxy is a benefit of the stitch-and-glue process but can tempt a lackadaisical eye for detail if unchecked.
A stout pair of sawhorses (or more) comes in handy. I made a short and rather slap-dash pair to keep lumber off the ground when stored outdoors. The pair pictured here stands at 37”, a height that allows me to comfortably cut lofted panels, scarf plywood, and more.
While rough around the edges, these horses were made with care. The lower member of the i-beam and legs are tapered at 12º to allow a narrower stance and tighter fit of components. Large gussets reduce stress and add strength. One-inch plywood blocks abutting leg edges reduce racking. Pre-drilled holes and large-diameter construction-strength fasteners make strong connections and reduce the risk of splitting. Leg edges and ends are eased with a hand plane to reduce splitting when dragged and the possibility of splinters. While these horses should easily hold over a ton of weight, the need to do so is unanticipated.
A lesson I keep learning is how to use tools on-hand and work around limitations. A Festool track saw I have owned for years was used to cut bevels onto the lower i-beam member, a step that required multiple passes. A table saw would make steps like this easier, but making due and reducing the costs of this already remarkably expensive process is a part of this journey.
An inexpensive Ryobi electric plane will accomplish various needs. The Ryobi was selected because it is preferred by Louis Sauzedde, a master shipwright whose Youtube channel is called Tips from a Shipwright. A fount of knowledge earned through lived experience, Louis offers an informative video about how to prepare this plane for use. After being tuned up using Louis’ suggestions, the little plane does a fine job removing material.
The electric plane was used to fashion the bow stem. After getting a feel for the tool, I was able to get close to my lines and reduce the thickness of a 4x4 fir CVG (clear vertical grain) to 3”. More passes with the electric plane created the roughly beveled bow stem faces that meet the side panels. A few satisfying passes with a #4 hand plane completed the job.
Bow stem shaped to the dimensions specified in the instruction manual
While seemingly trivial, organizing the building manual and accompanying construction sheets is worth the effort. It is often necessary to read a section, scratch one’s head in wonderment, and re-read until achieving clarity. It is also typical to take these instructions into the garage or work area to reference measurements and other vital details.